Official languages: Greek
Capital: Nicosia
Currency: Euro
Population as % of total EU: 0.17
Joined EU: 2004

Did you know?

• By distance, Cyprus is significantly closer to the Middle East than to Europe. The island is over 500 kilometres from its nearest European neighbour (the Greek island of Crete), but under 100 kilometres from the coast of Turkey. Syria and Lebanon are also closer to Cyprus than any European country.
• Cyprus is a divided country and its capital, Nicosia, is the only capital in the world to be divided by a border. The ‘Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus’ (only recognised by Turkey) occupies the northern third of the island, and the ‘Republic of Cyprus’ occupies the southern two-thirds. A UN buffer zone known as the ‘green line’ separates the two.
• Cyprus became independent from Britain in 1960. As a result, the majority of the population speak English and British visitors may catch some familiar sights – including the style of traffic lights and post boxes, and cars driving on the left-hand side of the road.
• Alongside Kosovo, Cyprus is one of only two nations to feature an outline of the country on their flags.
• Cats are extremely prevalent in Cyprus, with more stray cats than permanent residents. The oldest evidence of cats being kept as pets was also found in Cyprus, dating back 9,500 years.

Paphos: post-pandemic sun, sea, and relaxation

Like many, many other people, I’ve been craving a holiday for well over a year now. While the odd trip within the UK has been lovely – and in many cases eye-opening – what I’ve really wanted is to be in another country. And, as the British weather has slowly gotten wetter, windier, and colder, I’ve been dreaming of sun and the seaside.

As travel restrictions started to ease in this part of the world, in early October it felt like the right time to take the plunge and book a flight. And luckily for me the final stop on this quest to get around the EU was Cyprus – a country with over 300 days of sunshine in an average year, and with beaches continuously named as amongst the cleanest in Europe. What could be better?

Paphos was the destination I settled upon, a city on Cyprus’ south coast. Famous for its rich history (it contains a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite in Greek myth) and beautiful beaches, it was also named European Capital of Culture in 2017.

The city itself is an intriguing mix of old and new – the Old Town is nestled up on a hill overlooking the shore, and Kato Paphos is on the coast proper, made up of the harbour, numerous archaeological sites, and a string of striking luxury resort hotels. It’s about a 40-minute walk between them.

We opted to stay in one of the fancy hotels in the new part of town but were a bit disappointed with the neighbourhood beyond the shoreline. On the other hand, we were quite taken with the Old Town’s narrow streets, good views, and historic charm – so choose wisely where you want to base yourself if you choose to visit.

I’ve included my top recommendations for a slow and relaxing few days in Paphos below. However, it should be said that there is much more to get stuck into if you have more than a few days and access to a car – including quaint villages, beaches with nesting turtles, water sports, vineyards and much else besides. It’s always good to leave something to come back for though, isn’t it?

Coastal walk
The coast of Paphos city is studded with luxury resort hotels that have their sun loungers and fancy restaurants backing out onto the sea. If that sounds soulless and drab, you’re in for a surprise – because this is a wonderful place to take a stroll, especially in the hours leading up to sunset.

I personally loved the architecture of the hotels – bold whitewashed squares, signature large windows and bristling palm trees. You can start your trip at Rikkos Beach (recommended by our taxi driver, but not a place we dipped into the water) and head north. There’s a path right alongside the sea, with lots of places to dip infurther – it’s mainly rocky, but the water is warm and crystal clear. This area is also home to Paphos’ ubiquitous feral cats – which are large and very friendly.

Shortly after the hotels you’ll come to the municipal baths and then a strip of touristy shops and bars before you hit Paphos Harbour. Here you’ll find a clutch of restaurants, buskers, tour boats and the entrance to the archaeological park (Nea Paphos). A bit further on and there is Paphos Castle (you can enter for a fee, but we didn’t), before the road turns and becomes a proper coastal boardwalk.

This is the point you want to be at as the sun starts to go down. The path continues sandwiched between the sea and the archaeological park and is dotted with a few art pieces installed during the city’s time as Capital of Culture. The colours in the sky are phenomenal, so find a perch and watch the sun dip below the horizon.

Old Town
As I’ve mentioned above, the walk between the coast and the Old Town is not a quick one – but I’d recommend doing it at least once, as there are a few gems along the way. Although it’s not necessarily the most direct route, head via Fabrica Hill (another archaeological site) – as well as getting a bit of history, you’ll get some stunning views over to the coast.

The rest of the walk is very urban but feels much more ‘local’ than anything close to Kato Paphos – there are charity shops, bakeries and bustling local tavernas (without a tourist in sight).

The Old Town itself is a lovely place to walk around – there are narrow pedestrianised streets and welcoming squares, as well as a smattering of street art. Start at the square in front of the Town Hall and work your way north-west towards the market and the edge of the hill for more stunning views.

Food and drink
As always, no trip is complete without some over-indulgence in food and drink. Although I must confess a lot of my meals in this trip were delicious salty chips enjoyed by the pool and the sea, there are nonetheless a few places further afield that I would whole-heartedly recommend.

• Soli Aepia, on the edge of the Old Town, for lunch and a beer with a view.

• Souvlaki Lividias, also in the Old Town, a takeout serving delectable pitas and amazing grilled feta.
• Let them eat cake, on the edge of the Old Town and a perfect place for a rest if you’ve just tackled the trek up from Kato Paphos. Serving cakes and brunch, with tables looking out onto the square or in a lovely back garden.
• Papantoniou Bakery, a bakery/grocery shop on a side-route between the Old Town and the coast. We came across it late at night and indulged in some freshly baked baklava – we were not disappointed.
• Ouzeri and Mediterraneo, both hotel restaurants facing the sea and tearing up my preconception that hotel food is always bad. The former serves traditional Greek Cypriot dishes; dine here and you get the added bonus of the local cats coming to say hello. The latter is Italian inspired and is situated on a lovely terrace.

Resort luxury
And finally, just a shout out to the pleasures of staying in a sunny resort with wonderful pools, staff, and facilities. It’s not something I’d choose to do every time, but it was just the kind of relaxation I needed after the past year and a half – so cheers to that!